Actually it started awkwardly with a lengthy path through the customs convinced, because I have messy hair, a beard and have lived in the Netherlands, that I was trying to import drugs; then there was the feeling that it was a bit like Caen (much warmer though) with the language, all brands and shops, and the organisation of buildings that I knew, and finally on my second day I heard a native (called kanaks) shouting at me "Go back home" ("Rentrez chez vous" en francais, j ai beaucoup aime l emploi du vouvoiement). For those who do nto know NC, this small island (300,000 citizens) has a strong independence feeling and is due to vote around 2014 to decide to stay French or not.
But these details have been quickly erased first by the wonderful welcome I received from my uncle, the kindness of most of the locals, the relaxed atmosphere and the beauty of the island that boasts tropical weather hence vegetation and that is surrounded by a coral reef hence has marvelous snorkeling sports.
(I swear my uncle was happy I was there)
New Caledonia is not a backpacker place so my experience here has been different from the rest.
In my 3-days trip in the North of the island I did camping, giving rides to hitch-hikers and getting absolutely soaked due to the rainy weather.
I had a car then I resorted to camping because there are no youth hostels there. And I did camp for the 1st time since I was 12/13. My pride these days has been to be able to set my tent up by myself and without the manual (I know you think it's stupid but at first I had all these parts and I really wondered how to put them together; it's a bit like driving a BMW after years of Fiat Uno, things have changed so much that I needed to sit back and figure out how to do it) and not get flooded because it was raining cats and dogs that day. Another nice thing of camping in NC is that you get awaken by cockerels (and after similar experiences in Laos I can confirm that some cockerels do not wait for the sunrise to sing). On my second night I was alone in the camping and the dog of the owner was my guardian (like in South East Asia, there are always some animals wandering around).
After getting lifts in NZ I had the opportunity to give lifts myself. The first man I picked up asked my phone number as soon as he heard I was coming from Normandy ("c est la ou on fait le calva, hein?") and wanted me to bring him some calvados the next time I would come back from France. Then I had also these two young men who were farmers and had to go to Noumea, the big city (80,000 people); they were so happy to be farmers ("we can go and walk around in the fields or go fish in the sea") and they asked me again "do you smoke?" because they told me that here in NC "it is like Jamaica!". Well I've never been to Jamaica (and I probably won't because I would die of a reggae overdose) but for sure here people like smoking if I judge by the number of people who talked about it. The last people I took were a family who could not go to the marketplace because the bus was full and they gave me a kilo of lychee just because I drove them an hour to the village.
My trip in the North of the island was very funny because it reminded me a lot about South East Asia. As I said the scenery was a bit similar, I crossed a river on a wooden platform which reminded me of the bamboo train of the similar platforms I took in several occasions there. There was also all the animals wandering around including on roads and the extremely relaxed pace of life. Due to the rain I saw big waterfalls definitively much better than most of the ones that are marked as tourists spots in many countries. The North is gorgeous with the mountains coming right next to the sea so on the one hand you have the slopes with the tropical trees and on the other side the blue sea.
(on the right, the chicken of Hienghen)
But I would say what is really incredible in NC is the sea and the life in the sea. There are snorkeling spots all around the island and some very good ones (which seem to be the result of people feeding the fish). I went to a small island south of NC main island (l Ile des Pins) and there I went to a natural pool that was simply magnifique despite the overcast weather. So I imagine what it looks like when it's clear sky.... The marine reserve (Phare Amedee) was also stunning. Here are a few pictures.
(le Phare Amedee)
(la piscine naturelle a l ile des Pins)
Finally NC is also famous for its nickel ore and the country has many mines. Next to this there is what is called the "maquis minier" (mining bush) with is a low vegetation combined with the red ground. I went to a park where it was prospected some years ago and now the rivers flowing through are used to feed a lake itself used for a hydro-station plant. The lake has drowned a forest which in normal times (the lake was really low) would show only the top of the trees in a kind of surreal environment.
Finally I really had an excellent time here and as I was told it is easy to find a job well, this is just one more possibility but not top of my list. Anyway NC has many charms and I would recommend it probably for a honeymoon destination (since many of you think it is a time to settle down) because some parts of it has some taste of paradise.
