Sunday, April 12, 2009

Last week in Vietnam and first one in Cambodia

It is a while I could update my blog and i have done so much since then:
Saigon where I had a lot of fun sitting at the back of a motorcycle,
Phnom Penh where one could feel the interesting (and daunting) Cambodian recent history
Battambang and some off beaten track temples before riding on a bamboo train
and the amazing temples of Angkor

I have put the albums on the left (some just as hyperlink not to slow down too much the site).

The last two weeks have been really good, I have enjoyed my last days in Vietnam and I dived into Cambodia from the first moment.
Saigon is really a Western city so apart from the War Remnant museum (about the Vietnam War) there is nothing really attracting with regard to architecture or historical buildings. But the thing to do in Saigon is to get on a motorbike and go into the traffic. I went a bit outside the center just to experience it and I made videos here, here and here. This is so fun in real, much more than it looks on the videos (and I find them already good) because this is all around you like on the video. This is difficult to know how there are so few accidents (I did not see any) because with the sheer amount of bikes it is a complete chaos. It is so much that tourists who arrive in Saigon find it very hard to cross roads (and I do not exaggerate)

Next thing was my homestay during one night when I was in the Mekong delta. The delta itself can be very nice when you cruise on small rivers (see album Saigon & Mekong delta) but my homestay was my best time. I was in a small village where the family is used to welcome tourists (there were many beds for tourists) but luckily I was the only one that night. I then had rice wine with locals and later on I had a delicious local diner prepared by the grand-ma of the place and I played cards with the little kids (they were designing techniques in Vietnamese to cheat and beat me). That was a very good evening and the next day I left very early by boat so I could see the morning lights on the river.


We crossed the border on the Mekong and I feared the customs would be bothering us. Que neni they did not even have a look at our bags (they stayed on the boat while we went to the desk) so we could have smuggled in whatever we wanted. Anyway it was a funny experience.

Cambodia is a country full of contrasts. On the one hand it is really poor, many beggars sit in the streets and some buildings are in a desperate state (remember, Phnom Penh remained empty for 3 years when the Khmer Rouge emptied it from its 3 mln inhabitants when they took power); on the other hand you see big 4*4 and many guarded villas so obviously there are some Cambodian who enjoy a luxury life. You can also find many Westerner brands in the supermarkets whereas this was not the case in Vietnam. Second contrast is between the terrible recent history (the torture camp S21 of the KR in PP is really interesting, check pics (from p35 in PP album) as well as the killing caves (p18 in Battambang album)) and how Cambodian people are truly friendly. They are really less "aggressive" than the Vietnamese even when they try to sell you something and they smile all the time.

Finally the Khmer art is really nice and impressive: check the picture of the Royal Palace in the Phnom Penh album and the Angkor temples. Regarding the latter I was a bit cautious of again one must-see site. I still have the experience of Halong Bay where I have to admit I was slightly disappointed. But here it is absolutely not the case I was really impressed and the temples are amazing. If you like this type of historical visit then you have to make a trip to Cambodia.



One funny experience I had was the Bamboo train close to Battambang. I have made a video here of the ride and another one when two trains meet. The idea of this train is to take a bamboo platform, lay it on two set of wheels, get one engine and the whole set is easily disassembled when you meet other trains on the track (there is just one track).

After a week here I really think Cambodia is a fantastic place, one that is 100 times worth visiting and I am convinced this will, explode as a prime tourists destination in the coming years (remember that fights just stopped in 1998 when Pol Pot died).

I will now head to the east of the country to less-traveled roads and then into Laos. Before that the Khmer New Year starts in 2 days for three days of celebrations (it seems you get water-attacked during the celebrations).

5 comments:

Clairette said...

Love your videos Benj !!! The bamboo train sequences are amazing ! Must take quite a bit of time to travel around like this !!

Oh and keep an eye on info before your trip to Thailand, Bangkok is chaotic right now.

Take care
Claire

elodie said...

Oh non, dans le pays où je me trouve je n'ai pas le droit de regarder tes videos youtube: snif snif!

Les photos sont démentes voires "oufissime":-P. Un pays de plus sur la liste des voyages??!! Arrgh heureusement que la vie est devant nous :-)

btw: How did you manage to stay there for 3 days? there is accomodation even inside Angkor Wat? Better to go now, no? Then, in a few years it will be full of tourists..

PS: suis les conseils de Claire. Fais attention à toi quand même.

Anonymous said...

Benj,
I love the picture with the snake!
Can you bring one to Europe when u come back?

Cheers
Alberto

Anonymous said...

Fantastique !
Jérôme

Anonymous said...

Hi Benj,

Good to read that you’re enjoying your time in Cambodia! We are just back in London after our 3 weeks of travelling Vietnam. I can certainly understand your mixed feelings – landscape and food is great, dealing with the people challenging (esp. because of the scam issue and that it is difficult to meet people who speak any foreign languages and are not in the tourist business respectively “scamming foreigners business”), and from an architectural point of view it is even borderline disappointing because there really aren’t any real old sites to visit.

Since we did our tour in the opposite direction from Mekong/Saigon to Halong Bay/Hanoi, we didn’t feel too much of the rip off at first. It certainly gets worse the more north you go – on the other hand I found the north more interesting.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) in my eyes has no charm at all. After two days we left for the Mekong Delta. The floating markets are interesting but there you really feel like an observing tourist. Probably exploring the Mekong region by bicycle would do the trick. From Mekong we went back to Saigon and travelled by train to Phan Tiet / MuiNe which has a very nice coastal line and despite it being touristy it is very enjoyable as the hotels haven’t destroyed the scenery (yet) but fit in rather nicely. I believe that we were the only (Western) tourists on the train – interesting btw: there is an extra coach which transports the motorcycles. We had a three day break in Mui Né before we travelled further to Danang in order to get to Hoi An – 17 hours by train.

I can strongly recommend using the trains in Vietnam not because they are comfortable or convenient (they are really not) but because one gets away from the standard tourist/backpacker mean of transport and you’ll be really among Vietnamese. I had the impression with the so-called “Open Tour Bus tickets” foreigners are kind of forced into this mean of transport to keep them “under control”. Once in a train you see how Vietnamese families are travelling and how much Vietnam is a developing country. This makes it kind of easier to develop an understanding for why there are so many Vietnamese in the business of taking advantage of foreigners as a way of making their living.

Hoi An’s is a compact little town which is concrete free in the centre and shows a real ensemble of old buildings – its little alleyways are really nice (though I agree it is touristy). From Hoi An / Danang we went on by train to Hué. I especially liked crossing the Hai Van Pass (Cloud pass) between Danang and Hué: very scenic lagoons and mountains. Also the paddy fields with its water buffalos and fruit plantations are a great sight…

Hué: a compact 1,5 days did it for us as we had the feeling to have seen what we wanted to see and moved on happily. The thing that we did there was renting bicycles. It was worth a while because people in the street were quite aggressive in offering their services and so we could just cycle away from it. Once on the roads with a bicycle, we were shown (at least it felt like it) some kind of respect. No more people stopping you at every corner. Also, it was a great way of experiencing a Vietnamese standard mean of transport. We cycled on highways and country lanes – now I truly understand the need of the face mask (pollution esp. in the city!). The bicycles you can rent are rather for not so tall people, no gears but somehow we managed: it was a good experience! The traffic in the cities is the most crazy on earth (NYC and London are not busy compared to that!) and the motorbikes are surely most memorable. A whole family on a motorbike but also motorbikes as usual means of transport for all sorts of animals being driven to a market: we have seen pigs, cows, and chicken, everything on them…

From Hué we took the plane to Hanoi because we were running out of time. I kind of liked Hanoi with its crazy old town, but also a true French quarter (I was surprised how few is left of the French heritage in general), and the Hoan Kiem lake. The Water Puppet theatre is also great for getting a feel for Vietnamese culture. We also did the obligatory trip to Halong Bay with one overnight stay on a boat. Halong Bay is impressive – unfortunately the tour we had booked was a rip-off (stay away from Explorer Tours in Hanoi!! Worst scam ever!!) – next time I would also try to go by train to Halong City and then rent a boat / private tour at the harbour but we just didn’t have the time for that. I think chances are 50:50 to find a decent tour operator for Halong Bay – so you might as well book with the cheapest. Anyway the karsts are impressive and we met great people.
From Hanoi we flew back to Saigon – spent another evening with great food before heading back to London. All in all it was a great holiday.

I would say travellers who want to see Vietnam (and I would recommend it in general) should hurry. The tourism industry is starting to show its ugly face: the coast lines are being plastered with concrete and hotel complexes with Western standards are being built. More and more group tours are being offered by travel agencies who sell complete “hassle free packages” which will make sure that a visitor is being transported from spot to spot, can relax in a spa, and kite surf on the beach while enjoying truly Western/Vietnamese food which will not upset their stomachs too much. The big adventure will then be a day trip to a tailor who cuts the silk-holiday-remembrance dress or shirt… Ok, I’m being a little cynical here but I truly believe this is where it goes. Partly because, tourists are being treated so unprofessionally by the Vietnamese: I haven’t met one traveller who didn’t tell us a rip-off story and we also had our share.

It’s a shame because Vietnam is in my opinion a very safe country to travel: I never feared being robbed or felt threatened in any way. It’s just the nuisance one has to endure in the streets and the occasional fraud when you need to buy a service from the Vietnamese (like a boat trip in Halong Bay, a rigged taxi meter, or buying some commodities for a ridiculous amount of money – not for us – but compared to their real price). Western travel agencies will be able to sell very affordable packages and guarantee a hassle free travel. In the end it’s our choice but it’s certainly not getting any easier for travellers when the big agencies buy themselves in – little hotels might vanish, fewer offers on transport, fewer businesses for the locals (which might make them even more aggressive).

All in all: Vietnam was an experience I don’t want to miss. I hope you continue to having a great trip!! I keep reading your blog – it already gave me new ideas for further trips 

All the best,
Margitte